Spaetzle. The Pasta Dumplings that aren't as Tricky as they Look
Properly sautéed, browned, and puffed spaetzle are really special. Spaetzle are little egg noodles made from a wet egg pasta dough. But what’s different about them is their malleability and versatility. You can really finish them. Most people treat them like pasta, but their magic lies in directly sautéing them. Their drop dumpling shape allows them to brown evenly, stay separate, and soufflé' before going into a sauce or soup. Making them has the potential to be a little crazy and messy, but they are well worth it.
There are a million basic spaetzle recipes on the internet that will get you most of the way there, but I’ll share the little tricks that elevate them. As I have mentioned before, I was the chef of a great Austrian restaurant, but I started as the low man on the totem pole. I was taught this basic framework of a recipe, and I made it dozens of times. Here are some tips..
Use slightly more egg yolks than whole eggs (i.e for a 10 egg batch- 6 yolks, 4 whole eggs)
Add 1/2 c of creme fraiche or quark cheese for acidity and smoothness
Basic neutral seasoning of salt, pepper, and optional nutmeg (for old schoolers)
Use a sturdy whisk and work like crazy. It should be tiring to do
Whisk in Wondra flour until its really difficult to move and little bubbles appear
Using a simple spaetzle maker drop into salted simmering water, and don’t crowd your pot. Make multiple batches
After 30-45 seconds and a float to the top, scoop out spaetzle and give a quick rinse under cool water, lightly coat with oil and lay out on a tray
The really strong whisking at the end of the flour addition is important to develop the gluten that will keep them together as they drop into the boiling water. If the batter is easy to move around, then you should add more flour.
My favorite way to finish Spaetzle is with a quick sauté in oil and butter and finished with herbs and cheese, but they are infinitely versatile. The quick sauté not only gives color and flavor, but the soufflé effect really lightens them up as they puff. This is versatile dish that just screams handmade and special.